Darren Trentacosta

Can you talk to us about how you became involved in designing for the plus size market?

When I first started plus size modeling back in 2003 I needed to start building my book. Through my agency, I was recommended to a photographer who specializes in plus size women. To my luck it was Darren Trentacosta. I’ll never forget the location of the shoot, it was in a dingy dive bar in midtown Manhattan. I loved it. Darren has a great eye and helped in giving me the confidence that this is something that I could do, and his photos of me are quite hot! I was so excited to see him move into designing plus size clothing; he has a great line that I know he has been working so hard at. We caught up with Darren recently to talk fashion, his upcoming fall 2009 items and of course his fabulous photography.

I was attending a model search convention with a friend in Chicago, and there I met Catherine Schuller…at the time I was living in Paris, 9/11 had just happened and Catherine convinced me to move to NYC and work with her (she was at Mode magazine at the time) …she wanted me to do exactly what I had done for years with “skinny” models, in terms of styling and photography. One of the first major feats we accomplished together was the creation of CurveStyle, the first plus size fashion show during NY’s fashion week, whereby we showcased the newest and best in plus size fashions.

How do you translate the current fashion trends for the plus size customer?

Very carefully! …many of the “trends” can work if made “plus friendly”…ie scale/proportion/drape…these all have to work in harmony on a curvy body in order for it to look right. And don’t assume all plus bodies are created equal!…plus women, like all women, carry a little extra love in various areas…the idea is to find a designer that works for you and your assets. Also there is a timeless saying: “You’re only as wide as your widest line”…tailored clothing for curvy women is essential in looking proportionate and put together. Too much fabric can look sloppy and doesn’t show off your curves in the best light.

Samples from Darren Trentacosta's Fall 2009 collection.

How does the design process start for you?

Like most of us in the industry, it starts with street trends, and an eye to what the major designers, like Muccia Prada, Marc Jacobs, Marni are doing in their studios in Europe…from there it becomes a game of what will sell commercially and what will stimulate the consumer out of her daily wardrobe into something new and exciting.

You seem to have always been pushing for a more fashion forward plus size woman through your photography and your designing, what challenges have you faced in turning an industry that normally “plays it safe” for the plus size woman into something more fashion forward?

Ah here lies the million dollar question: Why is the plus market the way it is?…this is a loaded question and there isn’t enough room here to write about it all!…but having said that it comes down to 2 main areas…those in the fashion industry, both retailers and designers and the all important consumer. When Mode and Emme were around, retailers had a place to advertise and consumers had someone to look up to…both were vital in the marketing and education of plus size fashions. When both disappeared from the fashion scene, you saw a dramatic reduction in all things plus…as well you had a huge trend in straight modeling where the models went from 4-6’s to 00-2’s…and the average age went from 23 to 15…suddenly the focus became more on this highly unattainable “grunge” look of being extremely young, tall and thin. And without a voice for plus consumers, the market essentially died off. What remained was the highly profitable “classics”: Jones New York, Claiborne, Lauren, Eileen Fisher, Anne Klein, etc…

Plus size as fashion simply was over. Retailers and magazines shifted focus and plus size fell out of vogue. Then post 9/11, you had the invention of CurveStyle…the first plus size runway event staged during Fashion Week in NYC…which brought to light all the new generation of plus designers…more indie and grass roots in nature.

What was your inspiration for the Fall 2009 line?

My 3 favorite commercial stores for fashion has always been a blend of J. Crew meets Anthropologie, mixed with Club Monaco…3 major stores in NYC that have the perfect commercial blend of trend, cut, style, fabrication and details…

What is your personal style?

T-shirt, Shorts & bare-feet!

Who would you love to dress?

Jennifer Hudson

Who is your favorite designer?

La Croix, Muccia Prada, Victor & Rolf, Marni, Jill Sander, Catherine Melandrino, J Crew & Club Monaco

What do you like to do for fun?

Beach, Yoga, Read, Sleep!

Where are you traveling to this summer?

St. Lucia & New Orleans

What direction do you see plus size fashion heading in? More mainstream?

A brick wall!…literally, this is a question in the worst economic climate since the great depression…so if plus size fashion is tough now, who knows where the it will lead. But the goods news for our consumers is that we have drastically reduced our own prices, including our new Fall line coming out later this October…and a major shift in new items coming this Spring 2010. I jokingly call it our own version of an Economic Stimulus package…! I honestly feel it’s not until magazines, retailers (both straight and plus sizes) and designers get behind this consumer as a powerful shopping force will we see a real change in the market place. Conversely, plus consumers who have traditionally shopped in lower price point stores need to also realize that many of those great fashions you see monthly in the celebrity magazines, movies, etc are by nature more expensive…the production and costs of doing “fashion” is simply more expensive. So it’s the consumers responsibility to also support it’s designers.

What fashion advice would like to give the MP woman?

Invest in fewer pieces, but pieces that are made with quality design, good fabrication and an ability to mix and match it all season long. And realize you don’t have to sacrifice comfort or price to have it…and try something new…if you’ve never worn a pencil skirt, try it…you may discover a new sexy you!

www.trentacosta.com